Karijini

The falls at Fern Pool

Two big drives from Broome and we made it to (at the risk of sounding like the visitors guide) one of the most stunning, and the second largest National Park in Australia – Karijini NP.  On the way we overnighted at a place called Cape Keraudren, on the coast, just below 80 mile beach.  If you ever get a chance to visit this small, secluded nature reserve, my advice is; don’t.  Right from the start I had my doubts.  The scenery was reminiscent of the Yorkshire dales or a windswept Scottish lowland; barren rolling hillocks and not much to see.  When we arrived there was a strong onshore wind blowing and we steeled ourselves for a potentially sleepless night keeping the trailer upright.  As it happened, we did have a sleepless night, but it was the lack of wind that was, indirectly at least, the cause.

Cape Keraudren or the Yorkshire Dales?

It’s well known of course that when a bit of a gust is blowing it helps to keep the flying insects away, and so that evening as we barbequed over an open fire, we did not have a problem with any bitey things. I was starting to warm to the place.  

At around midnight, after  we were happily tucked up in bed, the wind dropped and the bitey things came out.  Of course, as we were in our tent asleep, all should have been well, but it turns out (and hear the comparison with Scotland is reinforced)  that Cape Keraudren has a bit of an issue with midges.  Midges which it transpired are small enough to move through the mesh on our tent windows as easily as a movie ghost through a closed door...  So, as our tent began to slowly fill with a cloud of these horrible creatures, we all began to stir and scratch.  Eventually the kids came and joined us in our bed complaining of the itchy, bitey things and pretty soon we were all cowering under sheets and uncomfortably waiting out what was left of the night.  The next morning it was clear that the kids had suffered the worst, with each of them covered from head to toe in something like two hundred bites each. Five days on and these are still making us scratch ...  Needless to say we packed up pretty quickly and completed the journey to Karijini. 

Handrail Pool, Weanu Gorge

We arrived in Karijini at midafternoon. The temperature was close to forty degrees and having just escaped one flying torment, we were greeting by another, more classically Australian flying torment – the flies!  This wasn’t helping us form a very positive opinion of this part of our trip...  The next morning the flies were no better and the temperature was climbing quickly.  We’d planned three or four nights here, but I was already starting to plan for a move that afternoon.  As far as I was concerned, it was a long way to come to be plagued by flies in roasting temperatures, just to see some more bloody gorges! I couldn’t se that anything was going to change my mind.  That is, until we actually saw the gorges. Then it quickly became obvious why this National Park has become such a treasured experience to those who visit. 

Getting our feet wet on this one...

Each of the gorge walks had something special to offer; great walks through dramatic, towering walls, permanent spring fed waterfalls and cool clear swimming holes. The various walks were graded on level of difficulty and skill / fitness required with anything more than a Class 5 requiring climbing and abseiling accreditation as well as ropes and safety equipment.   As we didn’t have these (knew that we would forget to pack something!), we contented ourselves with these fabulous Class 5 walks especially around Hancock and Weanu Gorge.  These treks involve precarious climbs along and up steep cliffs (with help from the occasional ladder), wading and swimming through long narrow passageways filled with icy cold water and steep and slippery slides down even narrower cracks in the ground.  The kids were transformed from children who could be seen to physically crumble at the mere mention of a gorge walk to ones who were asking to go back and do some of these walks for a second time! 

Karijini Sky

To top it off, each evening, when the flies went to bed at 6.30 sharp, we were treated to magnificent sunsets and a giant orange full moon rising behind our camp as we relaxed over a drink or two.  

So, my advice in this case is, if you ever get the chance to visit this increasingly well known national park, do it!  And do it soon because this nation park is stuck slap bang in the centre of the Pilbara with enormous mining operations on all sides.  I’m not sure how long it will be able to hold out.

Jules navigates 'The Ladder' in Hancock Gorge